Sunday, November 13, 2011

An old favorite, updated

For 15 years I have used a basic tomato sauce recipe that I gleaned from Martha Stewart Living.  What I didn't realize is that the basic recipe had morphed into something different.  So I present the original and my revised version for your perusal.

They are both good, they are both cheap and they are both easy.

                   
From Martha:
                   Perfect Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce

  2        tablespoons  plus 1/4 teaspoon salt
  1 1/2         pounds  baby pear tomatoes (or cherry or vine-ripened tomatoes) -- or one 28-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes
  8             ounces  thin -- best-quality spaghetti
  4        tablespoons  extra-virgin olive oil
  4             cloves  garlic -- cut into 1/8-inch-thick pieces
     1/4      teaspoon  crushed red-pepper flakes
     1/4           cup  fresh basil or parsley leaves -- loosely packed and torn
                        Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional)(optional)

1.   In a tall stockpot, bring 3 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons salt to a boil.

 2.   If using pear tomatoes, wash and stem. If using vine-ripened tomatoes, score bottoms with a small "X"; blanch 5 seconds in boiling water. Plunge tomatoes into an ice-water bath, then remove the skins. Using a chef's knife, cut flesh from cores, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips; place in a sieve set over a bowl. Press the cores of tomatoes through sieve; discard seeds. If using canned tomatoes, strain, and pass through a food mill.

 3.   Drop spaghetti into boiling water; stir. Cook until al dente, about 11 minutes, according to package instructions.

 4.   Place a 12-inch sauté pan over medium heat; add oil. Add garlic to pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is lightly golden, about 30 seconds. Add red-pepper flakes and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook until garlic is medium golden, about 1 minute.

 5.   Increase heat to high. Tilting pan at an angle, add tomatoes. Cook, swirling pan occasionally, until tomatoes begin to break down, pear tomatoes begin to burst, or canned tomatoes begin to thicken, 5 to 6 minutes. If using pear tomatoes, mash a few with a spoon. If pear tomatoes start to get too dry, add a little water from the stockpot.

 6.   Drain pasta in a colander, reserving 1 cup liquid in case sauce gets too dry. Add pasta to sauce in sauté pan; cook until sauce begins to cling to pasta, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in basil; cook 30 seconds more. Divide among bowls, and sprinkle with cheese, if desired.

S(Internet Address):
  "http://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=recipe1584"
 
And Mine:

                    Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce My Way

  4        tablespoons  extra-virgin olive oil
  4             cloves  garlic -- thinly sliced
     1/4      teaspoon  crushed red-pepper flakes
     1/4           cup  tomato paste -- loosely packed and torn
     1/4           cup  red wine
  1                can  whole  tomatoes -- (28 ounce)
  1              pound  capellini
                        Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional)(optional)

Press the canned tomatoes through a food mill. Set aside.

Place a 12-inch sauté pan on the cold burner and add oil. Add garlic and the  red-pepper flakes to the pan.  Let stand in the oil for 15 minutes then slowly raise the heat.  Bring the garlic to a slight simmer.

Add the tomato paste to the simmering garlic.  Cook for a few minutes, breaking up the paste into the oil.

Add the wine, bring up the heat and simmer until the wine and tomato paste have thickened.

Add the tomatoes to the mixture.  Bring to a simmer, season with salt and pepper.  Cover slightly and let cook for 30 minutes.

Drop spaghetti into boiling water; stir. Cook until al dente, according to package instructions.

 Drain pasta in a colander, reserving 1 cup liquid in case sauce gets too dry. Add pasta to sauce in sauté pan; cook until sauce begins to cling to pasta, 3 to 4 minutes. Divide among bowls, and sprinkle with cheese, if desired.

Optional:  Add 1 teaspoon of Penzey's Pizza seasoning to the sauce.  Or 1 teaspoon of Penzey's Pasta Sprinkles.

Optional:  After step 2 add 8 ounces of sliced mushrooms to the pan and saute until golden.  Proceed with step 3.

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What I have found is
  • I really prefer to mill or blend (when I have a working blender, which I don't) whole canned tomatoes. 
  • The garlic and pepper flakes taste better when started in cold oil
  • Herbs are completely optional.  Good, but optional.
  • Red wine or red wine vinegar bring out the tomato flavor.  Or vodka and cream. 
The lesson is that the recipe is the suggestion, what is important is to find the method behind the recipe.

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